How to Get Dog Pee Smell Out of Carpet: A Step-by-Step Guide

You've scrubbed that spot three times. Used vinegar. Baking soda. That spray from the pet store. The smell keeps coming back.

Here's the thing:

Regular cleaners can't break down the uric acid crystals in dog urine. They just push them deeper into your carpet. That's why the smell returns every time it's humid.

I've cleaned hundreds of accidents with my three senior rescue dogs. This 5-step process works. Every time. The key is enzyme cleaner—not soap, not vinegar, not baking soda—and patience.

Why Regular Cleaning Fails (Quick Science)

Dog urine contains uric acid, which forms crystals that bind to carpet fibers and padding. Water and soap can move these crystals, dilute them, or push them deeper—but they can't break the molecular bonds.

Enzyme cleaners contain bacteria that produce uricase, which literally eats the uric acid and converts it to carbon dioxide and water. No uric acid = no smell.

What You'll Need

• Enzyme-based cleaner (I use Naturally It's Clean or Sunny & Honey)
• White cloths or paper towels (lots of them)
• UV/black light flashlight (to find hidden spots)
• Optional: wet/dry vacuum

→ Get Naturally It's Clean on Amazon

Pro tip: A UV flashlight is $15-20 and worth every penny. You'll find stains you didn't know existed.

Step 1: Find Every Spot

Before cleaning anything, find everything. Dogs return to the same spots. You probably have accidents you don't know about.

1. Wait until dark. Turn off all the lights.
2. Scan your carpet slowly with the UV flashlight.
3. Urine glows yellowish-green under UV light.
4. Mark each spot with tape or a sticky note.

But here's what most people miss:

Check corners, near doors, and anywhere your dog sniffs repeatedly. If they sniff it, there's probably old urine there.

Step 2: Blot Fresh Accidents Immediately

If you caught it fresh, speed matters. The longer urine sits, the deeper it penetrates.

1. Press down firmly with white cloths or paper towels.
2. Stand on the towels to absorb maximum liquid.
3. Keep blotting with fresh towels until they come up dry.
4. NEVER rub. Rubbing spreads urine and damages carpet fibers.

Step 3: Apply Enzyme Cleaner (Don't Skimp)

This is where most people fail: they don't use enough cleaner. The enzymes need to reach everywhere the urine went—which is deeper than you think.

1. Saturate the entire affected area. Soak it.
2. The cleaner should reach the carpet backing.
3. For old stains, use 2-3x what the bottle suggests.
4. If there's padding underneath, the urine is there too.

I know it feels wasteful. It's not. Under-applying is the #1 reason enzyme cleaners 'don't work.'

→ See Sunny & Honey for quick cleanups

Step 4: Wait (The Hardest Part)

Enzyme cleaners need at least 10-15 minutes for fresh stains. For old stains? Overnight. Or even 24 hours.

• Cover the area with a damp cloth to keep it moist.

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• Keep pets and kids away.
• For stubborn spots, cover with plastic wrap.
• Set a timer. Don't rush this.

The result?

When you give enzymes enough time, they consume all the uric acid. No crystals left to reactivate in humidity. The smell is actually gone—not masked.

Step 5: Blot, Extract, Dry

1. Blot up excess cleaner with clean towels.
2. If you have a wet/dry vacuum, use it.
3. Let carpet dry completely (fans help).
4. Check smell after 24 hours. Repeat if needed.

Pro tip: Don't walk on the carpet until it's completely dry. Wet carpet attracts dirt and can mildew.

For Old, Set-In Stains

Old stains are harder because uric acid has crystallized deep in the padding. Expect to:

• Repeat enzyme treatment 2-3 times.
• Consider treating from underneath (lift the carpet edge if possible).
• Allow 24+ hour dwell time.
• Accept that ancient stains may never fully come out.

Now, here's where it gets interesting:

If you've tried 3+ times and the smell persists, the problem is likely the padding or subfloor. At that point, you're looking at replacing padding or professional treatment.

What Doesn't Work (And Why)

Vinegar

Can neutralize some odors, but can't break down uric acid crystals. Also smells enough like urine that some dogs will re-mark the spot.

Baking Soda

Absorbs surface odors only. Can't penetrate carpet fibers where urine soaks in. Fine as a final deodorizing step, but not a solution.

Steam Cleaning

Heat can actually set protein-based stains and spread the affected area. Always use enzyme cleaner first, then steam clean if desired.

When to Call a Professional

DIY won't always cut it. Call a pro if:

• You've treated the same spot 3+ times with no improvement.
• Urine has soaked through to the subfloor.
• You're preparing to sell your home.
• Multiple areas are affected over a long period.

Prevention Going Forward

• More frequent outdoor breaks (especially for senior dogs).
• Waterproof pads in high-risk areas.
• Bamboo charcoal bags for ongoing odor absorption.
• Keep enzyme cleaner on hand—always.

→ Get bamboo charcoal bags for prevention

For carpet accidents, I always reach for Naturally It's Clean. It's the one that works.

Need help choosing an enzyme cleaner? Check out our tested picks for enzyme cleaners that actually work, or explore our complete FAQ on dog odor cleanup.

Naturally It's Clean Carpet Upholstery Cleaner

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Plant-based enzyme cleaner for carpets, upholstery, and drapes—safe for use around pets.