Salt on the sidewalk? Wax the paws first.

Step up to boots for wet slush, ice balls between the toes, deep cold or rough trails, and measure the paw before you order. Wax or boots, rinse the salt off after every winter walk.

Wax or boots: pick by the problem

• Salt and de-icers: Wax plus a rinse after the walk, or boots for long walks. Salt still on the paws at the door? Our paw wipes for dogs do the wipe-down.
• Ice balls between the toes: boots, or trim the long fur between the pads so snow has less to cling to.
• Hot pavement: Wax for short walks, boots for long ones. If it's too hot for the back of your hand, it's too hot for paws.
• Wet slush and mud: waterproof boots.
• A dog who fights boots: wax, or thin rubber boots.
• Dry or cracked pads: a dog paw balm at home after the walk. Wax goes on before the walk; deep or bleeding cracks are a vet visit.

Wax you actually use beats boots that live in a drawer.

Paws are one part of the cold-weather routine. For short walks, ice and staying visible in the dark, see our winter walking safety tips for dogs.

Our picks

11. For most walks: Musher's Secret Paw Wax

Back to our top pickMusher's Secret Paw Wax

Musher's Secret describes it as a food-grade wax blend developed for sled dogs. It says it forms a barrier against salt, ice and hot pavement.

• The catch: Needs reapplying before each walk, and it can leave residue on floors right after.
• Skip it if: Your walks are long, wet and slushy. Go with waterproof boots.

22. For wet and snowy walks: QUMY Waterproof Dog Boots

Best for: Wet, snowy and slushy walks, where wax would need reapplying

The catch: Some dogs need training to accept boots.

Skip it if: Your dog has wide paws.

Check price at Amazon

Read the QUMY Waterproof Dog Boots review

Waterproof boots with anti-slip soles and two adjustable reflective straps. A wide split opening makes them easier to get on.

• The catch: Some dogs need training to accept boots.
• Skip it if: Your dog has wide paws. They can run tight.

33. For deep winter and rough trails: Ultra Paws Durable Dog Boots

Best for: Deep cold, packed snow and rough trails, where the foam insole adds cushioning

The catch: Feels bulky at first.

Skip it if: Your dog only walks on city sidewalks.

Check price at Amazon

Read the Ultra Paws Durable Dog Boots review

Thick foam insoles for cushioning and cold, with skid-resistant soles and a wraparound closure.

• The catch: Feels bulky at first.
• Skip it if: Your dog only walks on city sidewalks. Wax covers that.

44. For boot haters: Pawz Rubber Dog Boots

Best for: Dogs who refuse strapped boots, since there's nothing to fasten

The catch: No insulation, and thin rubber can puncture on rough ground.

Skip it if: Your walks are on rough trails or in deep cold.

Check price at Amazon

Read the Pawz Rubber Dog Boots review

Thin rubber boots that slip on like a balloon, with no straps. Reusable a few times before you toss them.

• The catch: No insulation, and thin rubber can puncture on rough ground.
• Skip it if: Your walks are on rough trails or in deep cold. Go Ultra Paws.

Measure the paw before you buy boots

Boot sizes go by paw width, not by the dog's weight or breed. A boot that's too wide twists and comes off; one that's too narrow rubs. Five minutes with paper and a ruler saves a return.

1. Trim the nails first, so they don't push against the toe of the boot.
2. Stand your dog on a sheet of paper with weight on the paw. Lift the opposite paw if you need to, so the toes spread like they do on a walk.
3. Mark both sides of the widest part of the paw, then the tip of the longest nail and the back of the pad.

1. Measure between the marks and match the width to the maker's size chart.
2. Measure a back paw too. Front and back paws can need different sizes.
3. Check for dew claws (the small claw higher up the inside of the leg). A boot cuff that sits on one will rub it.

How to get a dog to wear boots

1. Start with Pawz. They're the thinnest.
2. Let your dog sniff the boots, then put them on indoors.
3. Treat every step at first.
4. Start with the front paws only, and add the back ones later.
5. Still a battle? Switch to wax.

Boots slipping off or rubbing: fix the fit

• Twists or slides off mid-walk: usually too wide, or the strap is loose. Remeasure the paw and pull the strap snug around the leg.
• Red marks after the walk: too tight, or the cuff sits on a dew claw. Try the next size up, or a boot with a lower cuff.
• High-stepping like the floor is lava: normal at first. Keep the first sessions short and indoors, and they settle into a walk.

Rinse, dry and check paws after winter walks

Salt and de-icer ride home on the pads and in the fur between the toes, and dogs lick their paws. Rinse or wipe each paw at the door, then dry between the toes.

Look at the pads while you dry them. Cracks, small cuts and red skin between the toes are easier to spot on a clean paw. For the full routine and the tools for it, see how to clean your dog's paws after a walk.

Limping, deep cracks or swelling: call your vet

Wax and boots protect healthy pads. They don't fix a sore one. Call your vet if you see any of these:

• Limping that lasts after the walk
• A crack that bleeds or looks deep
• Swelling, heat or redness between the toes
• Discharge or a bad smell from the paw
• Licking or chewing at one paw that doesn't stop

Ask before you put a boot or wax on a hurt paw.

Considered, didn't make it

• Boots for every walk: for most walks, paw wax is the simpler pick. Boots are for the walks wax does not cover.
• Wax on long, slushy walks: it needs reapplying before each walk, so waterproof boots do better there.

Our verdict

Wax first, boots for the walks wax can't cover. Match the pick to your walk:

• Salted or hot sidewalks: Musher's Secret, rubbed on before you head out.
• Wet slush and snow: QUMY waterproof boots, unless your dog has wide paws.
• Deep cold or rough trails: Ultra Paws, with a few short walks to get used to the bulk.
• A dog who fights every boot: Pawz first, then back to wax.